My 1997 Toyota Supra Turbo (Speed Performance Mods.)

I have done many performance modifications to this car to make it faster than it already is (and have put it on a dyno. to test the effectiveness of these modifications), and this part of my site will tell you all about that . . . the car outputted over 861 horsepower and 801 ft. lbs. of torque (at the motor/crank - assuming 15% driveline loss) during the last test without the use of Nitrous Oxide. You can find out more on the dyno. and tuning information page.

We'll start with the good stuff . . . I have upgraded this car from the tiny stock twin turbo setup to a very large single turbo setup. When I was selecting a turbo, I wanted something very fast spooling that was very reliable. After all, at the time, this was my everyday car. Finally, after trying various things . . . we landed on a 67 mm Precision Turbo with a P-Trim exhaust wheel. I have used both .68 and .81 A/R Exhaust Housings with this. It spools very fast, just as I wanted. :)

The turbo kit on my car is the prototype kit for Boost Logic, the first one. :-) This was his attempt (and might I add, very successful) to find imperfections in existing kits and make sure his didn't have them. The manifold is SUS 304 Stainless Steel with equal length headers and sits lot lower than traditional turbo kits which cause clearance problems with the strut tower brace or overheat the hood 'cause of proximity. It uses a HKS GT-Spec. Wastegate, HKS Downpipe, and K&N Air Filter. Rest of the piping and trimmings are kit-specific. The kit is gorgeous, and you can now purchase this kit (with a different choice of turbo, if you like). Kean Wang installed this and my turbo for me at Boost Logic.

The Boost Logic fuel system was installed by Chris Johnson Performance Motorsports and uses an HKS Fuel Rail, Greddy (Denso) 720cc injectors, dual in-tank fuel pump setup (2 Walbro GSS341 Fuel Pumps), Aeromotive Fuel Pressure Regulator, Stainless Steel lines/fittings, Aeromotive Fuel Filter, etc. Chris Johnson (Performance Motorsports) does excellent work.

I am also using an HKS Vein Pressure Converter instead of using the stock (or dual) MAF setup or a stand alone engine management system. I use this in conjunction with my Apex-i Super Air Flow Converter (S-AFC) unit. I have information about how my units are tuned on the dyno. and tuning information page. Kean Wang and Justin Nenni (Protech Performance) tuned these units for me on the dyno. I also have a custom mount for my S-AFC in the glovebox which is angled so I can see it while I am driving, if needbe.

I have a GReddy Turbo Timer mounted on the left of my steering column right below the VPC. The Turbo Timer allows you to leave your vehicle while the timer leaves your engine running anywhere from 10 seconds to 9.99 minutes. The gradual cool-down prevents bearing damage that can occur when a turbocharged engine is shutdown abruptly after normal driving. The turbo's bearings rely on a generous supply of clean engine oil. All oil pressure is lost when the engine isn't running. With temperatures of about 250F/106C-and at the turbine shaft, 300-350C (540-630F) – a hard, destructive varnish or "coke" can form on the bearings or seals. The unit is only 1/4 DIN in size, as well. Initially, I had the install done by Glenn Petersen, prior to the addition of the VPC . . . see that install at the following link: Old Turbo Timer Install.

I am using NGK 3330 (BCPR7ES) Spark Plugs that are one heat range colder than stock. They are pregapped to .315 to avoid misfiring. I chose these over the 6097's, 'cause even though they are in the same heat range . . . I hear the 3330's run colder in practice.

Custom Mount for EBC: Another Shot
(I apologize for the glare in the above photographs.)

For an Electronic Boost Controller, I chose the Blitz SBC-id and have it mounted in my dash in a custom position perfect for me, thanks to Chris Johnson of Performance Motorsports.

Upon replacing the timing belt (regular maintenance), I added an adjustable Unorthodox Racing Cam Timing Gear (anodized red) and set it to retard exhaust timing 3 degrees, which is how our cars were tuned to Japanese Specifications before being shipped to the United States.

I have GReddy BCC to eliminate fuel cut. Before the installation of this product, I was using the FFCD. There is a long story behind this, as if there was some greater force stopping me from getting this product. I call it Lil' Viv's BCC Situation.

Also, I tightened the throttle and cruise control cords for increased throttle response.

To further increase the ability of my engine to "breathe," I invested in a GReddy Power Extreme Exhaust system. To see what the old installation looked like prior to Brad fixing it for me, pursue the following link: The Old Installation. Jotech Motorsports did a horrible job because they are a horrible shop.

Turbocharged cars, in general, always benefit a great deal from increased "breathing" capability. With more flow, the turbine spools up quicker, resulting in higher horsepower within a given RPM range. Reducing back-pressure as much as possible (while ensuring that the air/fuel ratio and ignition timing are optimized) always pays off in added power. This exhaust system, like most aftermarket exhaust systems, hangs a bit lower than stock . . . and can cause a clearance issue here and there. This GReddy Power Extreme exhaust system accompished what I was looking for in an exhaust system . . . increased flow and most importantly, still being quiet. I did not want a loud, droning car at low RPM's.

Before, I have run completely open, no exhaust or downpipe, and this was for race purposes only. It is not legal on the street. The car gains very much power this way. It also greatly lessens the weight on the car. To see a picture of my car with no exhaust on it, please click the following link: Vivek's Open Supra (Note: I have not done this since upgrading to a single turbo setup.)

I try to do as much work I can by myself, teaches me a great deal . . . and saves some stress on the pocketbook, too. =P Of course I can't do all my work myself, and my limited amount of tools doesn't help, either . . . in which case I trust a reputable shop to do the work.

To see more pictures of me working on my car . . . please click the appropriate links below:

The above picture was taken during a dirty removal of the following product. I added an Unorthodox Racing Underdrive Pulley, colored blue. I also had to buy a new belt. There was a low cost and high gains associated with this product, and that is what caused me to invest this way. A side note, my Air Conditioning appeared unaffected by this modification. It does not have a harmonic balancer or dampener like stock, and I had heard many bad things about eliminating this feature. I don't need extra crank vibration or premature destruction of my motor, so I sold this product. I've talked to the new owner (Hector) a couple times since, and he's very happy with the product, despite the risk . . . Pulley Pictures: 1, 2, Belt, Both.

I am using an HKS SQV BOV with a custom flange on my intercooler piping right before the intercooler. Prior to this, I had it as a stock replacement, and I won that kit at the TX2K1 Supra Meet raffle!

I have a Bryce Danna Motorsports Short Shifter in my car, but there have been some obstacles involved with this. I have made a separate page for this situation, which can be viewed by clicking the following link: Lil' Viv's Shifter Situation

For the cooling system . . . I am using a mixture of approximately 20% coolant, 80% distilled water, and I added some Redline Racing Water Wetter on top of that. I also replaced the cap from a stock cap (1.1 bar pressure) to a TRD Racing cap (1.3 bar pressure). I also use a Hardpipes.com polished upper radiator pipe to replace the sagging stock one (that can expand, as well).

I also have added the GReddy Front Mount Intercooler Kit. This came with a full polished aluminum hardpipe kit! =) This is the biggest HP increase I've seen over any modification before the single turbo upgrade (maybe except the added boost)! I have had one small mishap when the hardpipe popped off: Picture. (Be sure to tighten your clamps very hard!)

I have installed a Bruce Nomura front Radiator Panel. As I was installing this (it didn't fit quite properly), and I noticed that it blocked air from going into one of the front air dams, so . . . even though it may feed more air through the radiator . . . I'm willing to bet that it hinders more performance than it helps. Click the following link to see a closer picture of the panel: Nomura Panel

I bought a used Nitrous Oxide Systems wet shot kit, and below are pictures of the kit I bought as I bought it.

Nitrous Pictures

Hardpipe Tap For Nozzle

My 10 lb. Bottle

Me With Bottle

Icy Bottle

Bottle Pressure Gauge

Solenoids & BP Guage

Wire / Throttle Switch

Nozzle Tap , Line

Whole Kit

Chris Johnson, of Performance Motorsports, did the stealthy install (and he does much work on my car) . . . and it doesn't get in the way. I have a bottle blanket and purge kit, as well. I have the jettings on the kit set at a 75 shot (.022 for fuel and a .042 for Nitrous Oxide). The Colonel's Nitrous Oxide files were of immense help for me in finding these settings. I still prefer to win my races all turbo, but this can put me in another league I wasn't able to be in before, if necessary.

I also have a Nitrous Express Bottle Warmer kit installed, I chose this one because it is pressure based and not temperature based.

The remainder of this page talks a little bit about modifications I had on the car before the turbo system upgrade, which have since been removed.

I use to use an HKS Super Mega Flow Air Intake System (shown in lower left corner of below picture) to enhance my engine's breathing ability. When I had the stock blow off valve, it all of a sudden became audible with this modification, since the stock blow off valve vents back into the intake.

I was among the first to have added Steve Jarvis's Max-Air / Cold Air Induction (RAM Air) system to my car. He gave me a great price and asked that I give my thoughts . . . originally, it was cut a little high, but sits perfect, now. :) To see a close-up of this modification, please click the following link: The Max-Air System

I was most recently running in true twin mode, I didn't really want to . . . but, it was a must for the Nitrous Oxide kit with stock turbos. I haven't enough experience to form an opinion on this, yet, but I definately miss the low end power/torque I had when the turbos were running in sequential mode. I think I liked the power curve of the sequential setup much better.

Initially, I added a Scott Performance Downpipe on my car to make for less restriction, therefore even more ability to breathe easily. After the perils I describe as follows, I reverted back to a standard Rod Millen (or clone) downpipe. This was one of the more effective modifications on the car. However, my car has an OBD II computer with strict emissions controls, so I got the SP pipe with a high flow catalytic converter. I also got a flex joint on the end, and this was just a "better safe than sorry" measure. For this downpipe with all the trimmings, I paid $610.00. With the purchase of this pipe, my car was still able to pass inspection in all the states. Unfortunately, it seemed that the car was being held back substantially due to the catalytic converter. I was supposedly now able to run without a cat., because there is a solution to avoiding the "Check Engine" light caused by the second O2 sensor, Dan Dulac's OBD II Box. I paid fifty dollars for that. After working for one month, it no longer worked. There is supposedly another box out that works and is $100, but I may not try it. Andi Baritchi had the same result with my box, and he now owns the new box. I sent the pipe back to the manufacturer and asked that he have the catalytic converter checked out while sending me the pipe back with an interchangeable cat./straight pipe in the center. He agreed, and it took him more than three months. When I put the pipe on the car, I was pleased. But, it's been over 2 years, and I have not received the section of my pipe that is supposed to have the catalytic converter on it. Retrospect: If I had to do all this over, I'd just have gone with a 300 dollar Rod Millen pipe and a lot less trouble. In fact, that's what I ended up with. (Hindsight's always 20/20, eh?)

For pictures of the SP downpipe (before modification) from virtually every angle before the modification, please click the appropriate link to the image.

I won one of the raffle items at the TX2K1 meet, one I needed very badly . . . the HKS Super Sequential Blow Off (Super SQV) Valve! Jeff Collop helped me install this on my car under the strut tower brace in the stock position, it was a very easy install. This one doesn't vent back into the intake like the stock one did and is a little louder. I needed this because my stock one was giving me compression surge at low to middle boost/RPM's. However, this new blowoff valve does not vent back into the intake like the stock one did, and there is a point where my RPM's drop off too low . . . I needed to tune the Throttle Deceleration feature on my S-AFC to get better performance out of this, but I had trouble doing so last I tried, and hadn't tried since.

This page was last updated February 22, 2004. I welcome any questions, comments, and suggestions which can be sent by clicking here.